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Players talk about bet-sizing in relation to the size of the pot. The purpose of thinking about bet-sizing in relation to the pot is to understand the odds you lay to your opponent to continue in the hand.Examples:
· You bet pot: your opponent receives odds of 2:1.
· You bet 3/4 pot: your opponent receives odds of 2.3:1
· You bet 1/2 pot: your opponent receives odds of 3:1
· You bet 1/4 pot: your opponent receives odds of 5:1
Speaking of bets in terms of x times the big blind is of little, if any, use. Understanding how to create a proper bet size is important—and sometimes a bit tricky.
Leading with a bet postflop: When a player is the first to bet into a postflop pot, the logic is simple. E.g., a pot is $10 on the flop. A pot bet is $10, and your opponent gets $20 to $10, offering him 2:1. You make a half pot bet of $5 into the $10 pot, and your opponent receives $15 to $5, offering him 3:1. Etc. Creating the sizing is simple in these situations.
Raising a bet postflop: Raising after an opponent bets requires more work. Imagine a pot is $10, and your opponent bets $5. The pot is $15, and the action is on you. You wish to offer your opponent 2:1 and therefore need to make a pot-size bet. How do you determine the sizing? There are various methods, however, this is the method I find the simplest.
1. Determine the size of the pot if you would just call.
2. Multiply the result of #1 by the percent of the pot you wish to raise. (½, ¾, 1)
3. Add the opponent's bet to the result of #2.
In our example of a $10 pot and the opponent bet $5:
1. If we just called, the pot would be $20
2. We wish to make a pot-size raise, which is a multiplier of 1. $20 * 1 = $20
3. The opponent bet $5. $20 + $5 = $25.
A pot-size raise in this situation is to put in $25. The pot is now $40, and the opponent must call $20 to continue; he's getting 2:1.
If we wish to make a 1/2 pot bet, we change step 2.
1. If we just called, the pot would be $20.
2. We wish to make a 1/2 pot raise, which is a multiplier of 0.5. $20 * 0.5 = $10
3. The opponent bet $5. $10 + 5 = $15
A 1/2 pot raise is putting in $15. The pot is now $30, and the opponent must call $10 to continue; he's getting 3:1.
Raising a bet postflop in a multiway hand: Multiway pots require us to qualify our definition of bet-sizing. With our sizing, we offer pot odds to the last opponent who put money in the hand. You also look at the bet size of the last opponent for step 3. An example:
The pot is $10 on the flop. You're in the hand with Bob and Sue. Bob bets $5, and Sue raises to $25. The action is on you, and you wish to make a ½ pot raise.
1. Should you just call, the pot would be $65.
2. You wish to make a 1/2 pot raise. $65 * 0.5 = $32.50
Let's assume Bob folds. The action gets back to Sue. The pot is $97.50, and Sue must call $32.50. She's getting 3:1, which is what we hoped to accomplish with a 1/2 pot bet. Notice our bet-sizing doesn't offer Bob 3:1. When the action comes to Bob, the pot is $97.50 and he must call $52.50—obviously much worse odds for Bob. But our bet-sizing is aimed at the last player to put money in the pot.
Opening the pot preflop: The trick to understanding sizing preflop is to realize the big blind is the last person to put money in the pot. The sizing is aimed at the big blind. If you wish to open a pot preflop with a pot-size raise, you aim to offer the big blind 2:1.
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Let's use a $0.5/$1 game. Action folds to you on the button, and you wish to make a pot-size open.1. Should you just call, the pot would be $2.50.
2. The multiplier is 1. $2.50
3. The last bet was $1 (the big blind). $2.50 + $1 = $3.50
Opening with a pot-size raise is $3.50. Action comes to the big blind, the pot is $5, and he must call $2.50. This gives him odds of 2:1. Obviously the odds are worse for the small blind.
Multiway preflop raising is identical to postflop multiway raising. You offer odds to the last person who put money in the pot. Imagine a $2/$4 game, and you're on the button. Under the gun opens for $12. The action folds to you on the button and you wish to make a 3/4 pot raise.
1. Should you just call, the pot would be $30.
2. The multiplier is 0.75. $30 * 0.75 = $22.50
3. Under the gun raised to $12. $22.50 + $12 = $34.50
If both blinds fold, action comes to under the gun and the pot is $52.50. He must call $22.50 to continue. $52.50 : $22.50 is 2.33:1, which is what we're after with a 3/4 pot raise.
Following these three steps removes confusion for action in the blinds as well. For example, action folds to the small blind in a $1/$2 game. The small blind wishes to make a pot-size raise and offer the big blind 2:1.
1. Should the small blind just call, the pot would be $4.
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2. You wish to make a 1/2 pot raise. $65 * 0.5 = $32.50
3. Sue's bet was $25 (she was the last person to put money in the pot). $25 + $32.50 = $57.50
Let's assume Bob folds. The action gets back to Sue. The pot is $97.50, and Sue must call $32.50. She's getting 3:1, which is what we hoped to accomplish with a 1/2 pot bet. Notice our bet-sizing doesn't offer Bob 3:1. When the action comes to Bob, the pot is $97.50 and he must call $52.50—obviously much worse odds for Bob. But our bet-sizing is aimed at the last player to put money in the pot.
Opening the pot preflop: The trick to understanding sizing preflop is to realize the big blind is the last person to put money in the pot. The sizing is aimed at the big blind. If you wish to open a pot preflop with a pot-size raise, you aim to offer the big blind 2:1.
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Let's use a $0.5/$1 game. Action folds to you on the button, and you wish to make a pot-size open.1. Should you just call, the pot would be $2.50.
2. The multiplier is 1. $2.50
3. The last bet was $1 (the big blind). $2.50 + $1 = $3.50
Opening with a pot-size raise is $3.50. Action comes to the big blind, the pot is $5, and he must call $2.50. This gives him odds of 2:1. Obviously the odds are worse for the small blind.
Multiway preflop raising is identical to postflop multiway raising. You offer odds to the last person who put money in the pot. Imagine a $2/$4 game, and you're on the button. Under the gun opens for $12. The action folds to you on the button and you wish to make a 3/4 pot raise.
1. Should you just call, the pot would be $30.
2. The multiplier is 0.75. $30 * 0.75 = $22.50
3. Under the gun raised to $12. $22.50 + $12 = $34.50
If both blinds fold, action comes to under the gun and the pot is $52.50. He must call $22.50 to continue. $52.50 : $22.50 is 2.33:1, which is what we're after with a 3/4 pot raise.
Following these three steps removes confusion for action in the blinds as well. For example, action folds to the small blind in a $1/$2 game. The small blind wishes to make a pot-size raise and offer the big blind 2:1.
1. Should the small blind just call, the pot would be $4.
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2. The multiplier is 1. $43. The big blind (last person to put in money) is $2. $4 + $2 = $6
The small blind raises to $6 total (putting in $5 more). The pot is $8, and the big blind must put in $4 more, odds of 2:1.
A final example. A $5/$10 game. Action folds to the button who opens for $20. The small blind wishes to make a 1/3 pot raise and offer the button 4:1.
1. Should the small blind just call, the pot would be $50.
2. The multiplier is 0.33 (rounding). $50 * 0.33 = $16.50
3. The button's bet (last one putting money in the pot) was $20. $20 + $16.50 = $36.50
Assuming the big blind folds, after we do the math, we see the button would get about 4:1 with this sizing (off a bit because of the rounding).
A common question that I've been asked (and see asked frequently in forums) are what hands to play and from what position. These players want a poker starting hand chart.
I can understand why a beginner poker player would want a starting hand chart. And empathize. It can be scary or even intimidating to choose what hands to play. They don't want to get into any awkward spots and lose a lot of money. A hand selection chart can help you avoid these spots, as the charts are tight-aggressive in nature. So you're only going to play the best hands, and you'll be told when to fold, call or raise. You're not left to guess as to what you should do.
You're also not left to think for yourself, which is why I think using a poker hand chart is a big mistake. Legal new york poker sites.
5 Reasons Why You Shouldn't Use Starting Hand Charts
Steve Badger said it best when he said, Strong, solid winning poker is all about situational analyses. In other words, every situation is different. It doesn't make a lot of sense to use something as rigid or structured as a starting hand chart because it won't apply to every situation. If you haven't read his article on starting hand charts, you should go read it now.
I wanted to expand on what Steve said in his article, as well as give you a few of my own opinions. So here are 5 reasons why I think you should avoid using starting hand charts in poker.
1. Poker is situational. I wanted to expand on this thought using an example. Say that you have AA under the gun and raise 3x the big blind. You might have all weak-tight players at your table, and as a result, you get no action — everyone folds preflop. However, you can have AA UTG and have a completely different situation if you swap out the player in the big blind for someone maniacal. You might decide that open-limping makes more sense, or perhaps even raising larger than you normally would for value. Just that one player changes the situation entirely.
2. Poker charts stunt your growth. I think using starting hand charts is the quickest way to mediocrity as a player. Steve Badger agrees, as he said that 'rigid adherence to artificial charts is the root of ruin of many people who might otherwise become quite good poker players.'
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The problem is that if you use a chart, you're not thinking for yourself. You're doing what you're told. This might work if poker was straightforward (it's not). As I've mentioned already, poker is situational. At one table it might make sense to open-raise AA, and at another it might make more sense to open-limp. However, a poker chart is going to tell you to do the same thing no matter what. You'll never learn how to adjust for different situations or players this way, and you'll have a hard time developing these skills.
3. Poker charts = transparency. After a while of following a hand chart, it's going to become painfully obvious what you're doing, and to some extent, with what hands. Even the dumbest of players will be able to figure you out because you're consulting a chart, as opposed to reading the situation and making adjustments to your strategy. It'll be difficult to get value for your good hands, and it'll be easy to shut you down when you don't have a hand at all.
4. Only breakeven or losing players use charts. It's not that you won't be trying to win money. But between having to have your hands held, not knowing how to think for yourself and being transparent, you're going to have a difficult time making any money. When you have a hand, you'll play it the same way, and everyone will fold. And when you don't have a hand, you'll fold. Super face up.
5. You'll still need to play postflop. The problem with a hand chart is that it's only good (barely) preflop. Situations become way too complex postflop for there to be a guide on how to play your hand.
Also, having a clue as to what to do postflop means you had an idea of what you wanted to achieve preflop. But since your excuse is ‘my starting hand chart told me to,' you won't. So you'll have a difficult time trying to maneuver your way around postflop, much less strategize your way out of a paper bag.
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What to Do Instead of Using Starting Hand Charts or Guides
Since I told you not to use starting hand charts and why, you might be wondering what you should do instead. You still need to learn what hands to play and from where, right?
What I suggest trying is coming up with your own guide based on your experience and common sense. In other words, if you're not very comfortable preflop or postflop, it makes more sense to have a tighter range, as it's less likely that you'll find yourself in awkward spots. The more out of position you are, the tighter your range should be. So you might start off by saying that no matter what, you're not opening any wider than KQ from under the gun. Then as your skills improve, and your ability to label players as weak/tight and passive/aggressive improves, you can then give yourself the freedom to start widening or narrowing your range based on how you perceive your table and/or situation.
I hope this makes sense. It's much harder to explain in text than it would be to explain in a video or in person. What I'm trying to get at is that the less experience you have, the tighter you should be — tighter from under the gun and loosen up as you go around the table. As your skills improve, you can then start to relax your personal guidelines and play based on feel, perception and as Steve Badger puts it, situational analyses. I truly think that this is the best and fastest way to learn what hands to play, and from what position, in poker.
